New Zealand
January 18, 2004
Hobart, Tasmania to Christchurch, New Zealand
12 km today (in 0:44)
After getting on the plane in Hobart we hauled out all our reference material on New Zealand and started to think about what we'll do there. Just in time planning we'll call it. The cycling guide put out by Lonely Planet is a godsend -- its got great info, suggested tours with route elevation profiles. By the time we were touching down in Christchurch we had synthesized the LP stuff, combined with suggestions from Jo, Pat, Jim, Erin, Katie, etc. and have a basic outline for the next two months -- which will undoubtedly change on Day One!
The plane jumped around a lot on the approach to Christchurch. Some level-headed parents talked their kids into thinking it was a game, so a few laughed every time it dipped or dropped or shook. While everyone else clung to their seats white-knuckle fashion, Brent theorized on the wind patterns as they hit the New Zealand mountains that might cause this turbulence. I never really feared for my safety, knowing my time can't be up because I haven't finished torturing him!
The view, when you could think about it, was a study. It looked like a relief map. Flat over the plain, patchwork agricultural fields, sudden rugged mountains, hills and ridges. Sun filtering through the clouds casting shadows which highlighted the contours. We're going to cycle all of that!
Only minor damage to my bike this time, so we rode the 12 km into Christchurch which we read in our literature is the cycling capital of NZ. Easy to see why -- it's flat as a pancake. But, it is windy. Very windy.
We checked into our backpackers inn, and set out to wander the streets. Christchurch is a pretty, quiet city. English-looking and -sounding in many respects. The Avon River, Canterbury Plain, Christchurch Cathedral Square, historic 1800s buildings wonderfully preserved, English-country-garden-style yards. Both quiet and cosmopolitan -- traffic is light and unhurried, no one honks their horn just for the fun of it -- but tons of outdoor cafes line the street along the river. A very livable pace and place.
It's amazing that we can be in town for only a few hours and feel very settled already. This traveling thing is a breeze for us now.
Dinner at Little India is recommended. Great food. Waiters are Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Iranian. What a melting pot!
January 19 & 20, 2004
Christchurch, NZ
We used these two days to stock up on bike stuff (new fenders and pedals, backup odometer) since it's a great cycling town with lots of good cycling stores. It's surprising a population of 350,000 can support so many -- all the better for us. I also bought some warm cycling gloves and we both bought long underwear. We're freezing here! New Zealand stretches from a southern latitude of 34 to 47 degrees and Christchurch is about two-thirds of the way to the southern tip. While that puts it closer to the equator than Victoria, when it's cloudy and windy as it's been these two days it's mighty chilly even at the height of summer. There's a buskers festival here so we caught a bit of that -- drew great crowds who seem to love slapstick. The Antarctica Centre is supposed to be great but we just ran out of time. Next trip!
Backpackers inns have changed over the years. It's probably late in life for us to be learning all this. My visions of long hair, scarves, thumbing a ride to the bus station, hiking boots with thick wool socks sticking out of them, not two pennies to rub together, has had to give way to the modern reality -- yuppies, lots of folks in their 40s, 50s, 60s, many pulling up in cars. Many rooms have en suite bathrooms. While dorms exist, there are lots of other options. Were it not for the communal kitchen and a lived-in look, many of the units would be indistinguishable from a basic-style motel. Once again we've managed to avoid roughing it!
January 21, 2004
Christchurch to Glentunnel
95 km today / 107 km to date (in 5:40)
This is A-one cycling. The Canterbury Plain is one of the few flat places in New Zealand and we're making the most of it, doing a big circuit inland across the plain to the foot of the southern Alps and then heading south. For mile after mile the mountains rise up on our right while to the left the wide plain stretches as far as the eye can see.
Near Christchurch there are a few produce farms but before long we're into grazing land -- sheep, cattle, horses and even one deer farm. Most of the sheep have been sheared and woolly ridges adorn their pink and white bods.
The landscape is wide-open except for the many windbreaks. This is telling us something. Most of the windbreaks are cedar, some are pine, fir, birch and eucalyptus. Many of the farm houses are completely surrounded by trees, but whether this is for summer shade, winter windbreaks or simple aesthetics I don't know. In most cases though they are ornamental trees just as we have in B.C. Consequently, while Tasmania was clearly a different vegetation, New Zealand, at least on day one, does not look very alien to us.
We met two Quebec cyclists today. Friendly folk spending 2 1/2 months and planning to go to many of the same places. Our paths may cross again. Last mid-January to mid-March they spent 2 months cycling 3,000 km in Cuba and highly recommend it. I may have another plan beginning to hatch!
At our on-site caravan in the caravan park the reception area was managed by a woman who had earlier in the day been out tree-pruning. They take the branches off the bottom 20 or so feet of pine trees to reduce knots and ensure straight growth. She had done 45 trees; I was clearly supposed to be impressed; is 45 a lot? Sounds like more fun than backbreaking tree planting, in any event.
January 22, 2004
Glentunnel to Mt. Somers
62 km today / 169 km to date (in 3:51)
Another great cycling day across the plain, which is largely unbroken aside from the occasional gorge. The term "gorge" means something different in this terrain. While it may be a deep, narrow cut further into the mountains, here it is often quite shallow and, more often wide, up to 300 metres I'd guess. They are typically dry now but look like they flood widely if not deeply when the rains and melting snows occur. One wide gorge we passed today had a sheer drop at one edge -- at least as spectacular as Sri Lanka's World's End. This gorge is so wide it looks like a floodplain. Very dramatic.
Yesterday's morning headwind turned to a tailwind at about 2:00 yesterday and stayed with us all day today. The sun came out, we breezed along past sheep, cattle, deer farms, bee keepers sites. Golden grazing land, basking in the rays -- gorgeous. Saw four touring cyclists and one roadie.
We have continued to see lots of hedgerow windbreaks, all neatly trimmed when they are in town. Since they're 20 feet high it looked like a lot of work and a country of tidy-minded people. We learned today that a truck with a giant circular saw e can do the job -- side and top. I'd love to see it -- that must be one monstrous machine.
The Lonely Planet guide makes things just too darn easy. I had feared we might start following it blindly, missing out on our own opportunities to create our own adventures. On reflection, I suppose I should have had "no worries, mate", given our personalities. We're taking great liberties. Adventure here we come.
January 23, 2004
Mt. Somers to Fairlie, New Zealand
100 km today / 269 kms to date (in 5:44, although I had to cycle for .5 km around the campsite to hit the 100 km. So much for "egoless cycling"!)
Another great day spurred on by a helpful tailwind starting the day at 15 km/hr and ending at a blustery 35. For the first leg to Geraldine and a bit beyond, more of what is now "the same" -- golden fields, sheep, horses, cattle, 5 deer farms, irrigation ditches, 1 set of bee hives. At Geraldine we turned west, which pointed us at the Southern Alps. As we got closer to the foothills, the sky darkened, the wind freshened and it looked like only moments until we were in the rainclouds hugging the lower levels of the mountains. It got chilly and I nearly froze while Brent and a police officer had a little chat about bike helmets, which eventually turned into route advice and options. What a talker. The police officer, I mean.
We saw seven touring cyclists including a Dutch couple staying at the same holiday park we are. Based on their own research and advice of other cyclists, they spent one week touring the north island in a car and are now beginning nine weeks cycling the south island. This is so contrary to the advice we had received that we're reevaluating our plans with this new info -- to what end only time will tell.
He was a professional soccer player until last summer when he injured his Achilles tendon. He has now taken up this cycling - but goes slow. Yeah, that's what they all say.
Fairlie has only 845 population, but supports a terrific restaurant - The Old Library Bar and Cafe is recommended.
January 24, 2004
Fairlie to Lake Tekapo
49 km today / 318 to date (in 3:29)
In the end it didn't rain at all yesterday, and this morning, far from being the dreaded "southerly change", it's a beautiful day. We cycle alongside the foothills, looking at the clouds hanging over the mountaintops, but they all dissipate by noonish. It's a gentle although long climb and almost before we know it we've popped up onto a plateau and, looking across its expanse, see a long row of snow-capped mountains. It's picture-postcard stuff. Glorious, and all the more so for being so sudden and unexpected. We let the tailwind propel us across the plain, thinking life doesn't get any better than this. Then the road drops down slightly into the town of Lake Tekapo (elev 710) population 315 plus 1,000 tourists. We did a rough count of the number of tour buses which passed us on the road - about 35. Japanese outnumber Kiwis. There are at least as many campers and RV's as cars. Saw two cyclists, in addition to our Dutch friends.
The lake after which the town is named is fed by glaciers which grind rock into fine dust suspended in the water. When combined with sunlight it's that turquoise colour of only glacial waters. Surrounding it are high hills and sheep stations. From the small town shore you see only nature at it finest. Plus a couple of helicopters, small planes, ski boats and jet skis - to make sure there is an opportunity to improve on nature! Our cabin is at a campsite on the water. As the sun goes down it turns the surrounding hills a glowing rosy colour for a few minutes. People stop to watch, then it's nightfall.
January 25, 2004
Rest day in Lake Tekapo
One of our twosome thought we should have a rest day in preparation for crossing the island to the western side (actually to the middle, since the west coast involves crossing all sorts of mountains - maybe later). Since this is a scenic spot, why not rest here? Besides, this is yet again a complete change in our last plan and, who knows, it could well change again by tomorrow. It's cool today (18 - 20 degrees) we we're bundled up a bit but enjoying books and umpteen cups of coffee.
Brent headed off to do the 3 hour Mt. John circuit walk. The view emphasizes how desert-like the area is, he says. Beautiful blue-green turquoise lake surrounded by the brown-grey hills of the area and very little in the way of trees. Dry air is why New Zealand's observatory is located here.
It drizzled off and on all day so we picked a good day not to cycle -- saw two cyclists braver than us.
January 26, 2004
Lake Tekapo to Twizel
59 km today / 377 km to date (in 3:17)
It rained off an on all night and in the morning was a chilly 18 degrees, but with no rain at the time and with little more to be explored at Lake Tekapo, we rode out of town. There is a long canal leaving Lake Tekapo -- yet more hydro infrastructure -- to eventually drop into Lake Pukaki, the largest dam storage area in New Zealand. The canal carries Lake Tekapo water so is the same glacier water colour -- a gorgeous ride if it were sunny. There are no cars since people making time use the highway and, even there, traffic is light. This is a small country but its low population density means all roads are pretty good for bicycling.
In the middle of the canal we passed a salmon farm. The canal is not particularly wide, maybe 15 metres, and the salmon pens only a short distance, maybe 100 metres. The scale seems challenging to be profitable. The canal is also virtually flat; it drops an amazingly small 4 metres over 24 kms. Its hard to imagine the water flows at all over the drop although eyeballing it, it looked to be at 2 or 3 knots. I guess they know the science and the flow must be enough to wash the sediment from under the pens. More to learn. There were two fishers about 20 metres downstream -- they must be hopeful of escapees?
At about the 40 km mark, it started to drizzle. As the intensity increased and we started to get chilled, we pulled into the town of Twizel (pop 1,000) for a warming lunch and steaming bowl of latte. We got some near-term cycling advice from a fellow who was interested in learning about Brent's bicycle seat (which has turned out to be a real conversation piece, to say nothing of its other redeeming feature) and met a German woman who is on her fourth holiday in New Zealand in four years and was also full of travel ideas for us.
Twizel is yet another hydro town which was vacated in the late 1970s/ early 19880s when the area's hydro construction projects were completed. Like all other such towns it is trying to reinvent itself with tourism. They are having some success; houses which sold two years ago for $40,000 now sell for $160,000. There isn't much to see. The main attraction is a tiny hill, man made when they moved some earth for dam building purposes! The trees they planted on top are icing on the cake.
The town is known for a rare bird, the Black Stilt, so Astrid (our new German friend) and Brent signed up for the stilt-watching tour. The guide was so happy to have someone to show around that after stilt-spotting he drove them all around the area. His wife was at work, you see. At reception at our hotel. Small town!
January 27, 2004
Twizel to Omarama
31 km today 408 km to date (in 1:41)
We complete what was to be the end of yesterday's ride, again in a bit of light drizzle. The locals are pleased about the precipitation since it is normally dry here and this year there are drought conditions. I'm trying to be happy for them. The road continues flat, and the terrain is largely the gray/brown of gravelly, sandy soil from which only short tufts of grass seem interested in trying to grow.
By noon we are at Omarama, have explored the entire town, met most of its 355 population and are looking anxiously at the sky. We can't go on today since the next accommodation is 115 kms away. Fortunately, we found a terrific restaurant, the Clay Cliffs, located at the vineyard of the same name. It is the highest-altitude producing vineyard in the area. Tried the vineyard wine while feasting on local smoked salmon (who knows, maybe one of the ones we saw in the pens yesterday), polenta and other delicacies. Great atmosphere, highly recommended.
On to Brenda's next New Zealand diary.
Back to the South Island page this way
Back to the New Zealand page this way
Back to the trip overview page this way